Sufi music and dance at the deep heart of Cairo.


The Hussein (zone where the famous "Khan el Khalili" market can be found) is a treasure island to be discovered. Thanks to fellow musicians and dancers, I discovered another spot (not accessible to tourists) where Sufi musicians and dancers gather for soulful concerts. First, there is the mystical palace where the concerts take place. Fatimid and Mameluk buildings with that rare air of "A thousand and one Nights". You expect Shehrazade to come out from behind a curtain at any given moment...it is MAGICAL.

Then there is a funny mix between RELIGIOUS and SECULAR elements. Like sacredness and prophanity holding hands. Sheikhs - who are treated and act like super stars - praising Alah, the Prophet Mohamed and the "Koran", dancers of "tannoura" that REALLY believe in their own connection with God, through whirling, musicians who are, obviously, under the effect of some kind of drug and "shaaby" singers adding spices to the gathering.

How apparently opposite worlds touch is something interesting to observe. Nothing new in Egypt, may I add. Contrasts and opposites touching each other is a constant in this country. These evenings just have a certain "je ne sais quois" that leave me hanging between the sky and hell.

Egypt is crazy and Cairo is a madhouse. That is for SURE. But NEVER, EVER will I call BORING to this place. Everything BUT boring.